安迪·沃霍尔是谁？如果你对这个名字有点陌生，那么提起那幅色彩缤纷、跳跃的玛丽莲·梦露多格肖像，你一定不会陌生。这位美国当代最重要的视觉艺术家，1928年生于美国宾夕法尼亚州匹兹堡的一个斯洛伐克移民家庭。虽然他引起业界关注而后大放异彩，是他到纽约之后的事，但他的人生踪迹仍然被家乡匹兹堡的人们保存得异常清晰。
有的城市因一个人变得光彩熠熠，他曾经生活在这里，通过其创作呈现了这个城市多姿多彩的一面。安迪·沃霍尔和匹兹堡，就是这样的一对。
我原本不是安迪·沃霍尔的狂热粉丝，对匹兹堡也并不熟悉，只是当我准备自驾游攻略，搜索关于匹兹堡的资料时，“安迪·沃霍尔”这个名字一下子跳了出来——在一座以钢铁工业闻名的城市，这种关联很难不让人着迷，也更让我好奇，一座以硬朗形象著称的城市何以成为当代艺术大师的摇篮？今年夏天的匹兹堡之旅，为我部分地解开了这个疑团。
珍藏在博物馆里的一生
在匹兹堡，如果你想纵览安迪·沃霍尔的一生，那么最好是去以他名字命名的博物馆。这座博物馆成立于1994年，早在沃霍尔1987年去世后的两年，成立博物馆的计划就已经初见雏形，安迪·沃霍尔视觉艺术基金会（Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts）和迪亚艺术基金会（Dia ArtFoundation）向博物馆捐赠超过8000万美金用于筹备，安迪·沃霍尔的作品随后源源不断地汇集于此。在整个美国，专门为纪念某位艺术家所建立的博物馆当中，这是最大的一座。博物馆落成开幕的那个周末，两天内就吸引了25000多人前来参观——对那时候人口只有不到40万的匹兹堡来说，这已相当可观。
游览博物馆的最佳路线，是从阿勒格尼河（Allegheny River）对岸出发，步行通过已经命名为“安迪·沃霍尔大桥”的第七街大桥，按照桥上印着安迪·沃霍尔头像的海报指引方向前行。位于大桥另一端的白色建筑，便是全世界收藏安迪·沃霍尔作品密度最高的地方。虽然博物馆外观不起眼，它可足足占了七层。你可以乘坐电梯到七楼，以时间为序参观，从安迪·沃霍尔的生平到作品，可以完整地欣赏到关于安迪·沃霍尔的一切。
沃霍尔自小喜欢艺术，父亲很早就发现了他的艺术天分，并鼓励他在这条道路上打拼。9岁的时候，父亲送给他一台相机，还带他到卡内基理工学院上免费的美术课。安迪·沃霍尔小时候曾患上神经系统疾病——风湿性舞蹈症，一度行动不便，他便以画画消磨时间。后来他曾感慨，这段时期对他的技能、爱好和性格形成和培养尤为重要。上大学时，安迪·沃霍尔进入卡内基理工学院（Carnegie Institute of Technology）学习商业美术，最终获得了图像设计专业的美术学士学位，然后他离开家乡，在纽约的一家商业广告公司里，以商业插画师的身份正式开始了自己的创作生涯。
今天，安迪·沃霍尔博物馆里收藏了约900幅绘画作品、4000多幅照片、超过4000部相关影像资料以及若干文稿，跨度从1950年代到1987年其去世之前，涵盖了他的整个职业生涯。虽然面向公众开放的只是一小部分，但足以让人管窥不同时期他的创作脉络及艺术理念的流变。
安迪·沃霍尔不是一个高高在上的艺术家，尽管在26岁时他便获得了美国平面设计学会颁发的“杰出成就奖”，但他并未将艺术创作看作是一件非常严肃的事。1950年代的沃霍尔，是成功的插画家和设计师，他的创作风格大胆，那时已经开始探索将照片、图像元素注入绘画当中。到了1960年代，他开始全身心地投入波普艺术的创作当中，从传媒和商业广告中提取创作素材，利用丝网印刷等多种技术进行二次创作，是他的拿手好戏。风靡至今的《金宝汤罐头》系列（Campbell’s Soup Cans）就是那个时期的代表作品。
同时，他还创建了自己的工作室，在创作装置艺术之余，还尝试拍摄了几百部电影短片。1970年代，美国艺术界不再像上一个十年那么风云激荡，渐渐回复平稳，大量地为名人绘制肖像，是安迪·沃霍尔这一时期的重要主题。去世前几年，他开始重新拿起画笔，并与不同风格流派的年轻艺术家们合作，继续探索当代视觉艺术的边界，为后人留下了许多富于想象力的作品。
在安迪·沃霍尔博物馆的海量展品中，除了玛丽莲·梦露等名人肖像不容错过之外，观众还可以饱览他以同样技术重新制作的一批世界名画。1984年，安迪·沃霍尔接受他人委托，基于达芬奇的名画《最后的晚餐》重新创作了一系列作品，包括黑白的四版印刷画，在他去世前不久才在米兰展出，现在这幅作品也为该博物馆所收藏。
博物馆的展览还向世人展现了安迪·沃霍尔鲜为人知的一面：幼年收集的剪报和照片，学生时期的习作，初到纽约时与朋友的青涩合影，成名之后与他人的通信……这些都被为他自豪的匹兹堡人事无巨细地陈列出来，甚至包括他少年时代的偶像——他13岁时迷上的秀兰·邓波儿曾经送了一张签名照给他，安迪·沃霍尔郑重把这张照片和其他明星照片剪报放在一起。
崭露头角的大学时代
安迪·沃霍尔虽然已经去世近30年，他的遗作仍然在匹兹堡的各个角落不断涌现。比如，今年早些时候，匹兹堡的艺术家和工程师们就借助卡内基·梅隆大学计算机俱乐部的设备，复原了一系列他创作于30年前的彩色数码艺术作品。其中既有根据波提切利（Botticelli）《维纳斯的诞生》发挥的二度创作，也有《金宝汤罐头》系列的经典再现，其技术手段和表达方式一如既往地走在艺术界的前列。
坐落在卡内基·梅隆大学校园内的卡内基美术馆是寻找安迪·沃霍尔的另外一个必经之地。博物馆以匹兹堡“钢铁大王”、慈善家安德鲁·卡内基的名字命名。安迪·沃霍尔绘制的卡内基的肖像——画中的钢铁大亨蓄着胡子，头发花白，出现在红色和紫色的丝网印刷画布上，如今被安置在卡内基博物馆内，成了“镇馆之宝”，画像还曾经出现在1989年版的卡内基传记封面上。
连同美术馆在内，卡内基·梅隆大学校园专门规划了一大片博物馆区域——这里是当年卡内基理工学院的所在地，也即安迪·沃霍尔的母校，它于1967年与梅隆工业研究所（Mellon Institute of Industrial Research）合并，更名为卡内基·梅隆大学（Carnegie Mellon University）。成立不到50年的卡内基·梅隆大学，旗下的计算机等理工科专业已经处于美国国内顶尖水平，培养了众多人才，其中包括国人非常熟悉的李开复。
大学校园虽然不大，也不像相邻的匹兹堡大学拥有300年历史和动辄上百年的老建筑。校园里最具标志性的地点是雕塑“Walking to the Sky”（走向天空），这座作品由Jonathan Borofsky设计，它的原作最初放置在纽约的洛克菲勒中心，作品表现的是一组年龄、性别和职业各不相同的人在100英尺长、倾斜75度的钢铁上行走，意指人类探索未知的潜力。这种用于创新的气质，与卡内基·梅隆大学乃至匹兹堡的气质颇为契合。
卡内基·梅隆大学校园早已今非昔比，不过安迪·沃霍尔的求学时光并非无迹可寻。安迪·沃霍尔博物馆展出了多幅他在此求学时的习作和照片，比如在学校咖啡厅里跟菲利普·佩尔斯坦恩（Philip Pearlstein）等好友喝东西聊天的场景。后来成为超写实主义代表人物之一的佩尔斯坦恩是安迪·沃霍尔的大学生涯中不可或缺的一位人物，毕业后，两人一同到纽约打拼。
在佩尔斯坦恩的自传中，他回忆两人在卡内基理工学院初次见面的场景时说：“第一学期一节早上的绘画课前，一个叫安迪的年轻人把他的画架架在我的旁边，他说他知道我的画作登上了《生活》杂志，也知道我是全国高中美术竞赛的获奖者。那已经是5年前的事，安迪问我：‘成名的感觉如何？’我立即回答：‘那只维持了5分钟。’”
在接下来的3年里，两人在绘画和写生课上一直毗邻就坐，成为挚友。佩尔斯坦恩评价说，安迪·沃霍尔学生时代的绘画总是很怪异，却又带有一股迷人的气质。安迪·沃霍尔是个坚持自我、不为外界所动的人。成名之后，他创作的可乐瓶、汤罐头，虽然一度被业内同行批评为裹挟了过多的商业元素，是对消费主义的“谄媚”，但是他并没有因此改变创作方向。在美国当代艺术发展史上，商业从初期受到排斥，渐渐发展成为创作元素的一部分，安迪·沃霍尔正是引起这一转变的重要人物。
安迪·沃霍尔在大三那年得到了在当地一家大型商场平面设计部门工作的机会。为了弥补经验的不足，他利用午休时间阅读大量的时尚杂志，学习内页设计的诀窍，例如页面色彩搭配和标记放置的位置、实物照片印刷后的变化等等。这些视觉设计和印刷方面的知识，在他后来的艺术创作过程中帮了大忙。
安迪·沃霍尔的毕业设计作品也是和佩尔斯坦恩一道完成的。佩尔斯坦恩说，他总是会被安迪·沃霍尔解决设计难题时展现出的极简主义思维和作品中的视觉冲击力所震撼。大四时，安迪·沃霍尔向匹兹堡艺术家联合会（Associated Artists of Pittsburgh）提交了作品参加年展，最终入选，初次尝到了成功的滋味。当年，还没毕业、才20岁出头的安迪·沃霍尔，在匹兹堡完成了许多在今天看来都不过时的成熟作品，这也不难解释为什么他能够在高手林立的纽约商业广告界迅速地打响名声。
深入社区的创意文化
匹兹堡常被冠以“钢铁之都”和“桥梁之城”的名号，因为城市地处两河交汇的三角洲地带，走马观花地游览这个城市，令人记忆最深的就是各种桥梁。沿河滨公路行驶数公里，已经掠过三五座桥梁。匹兹堡的桥梁多为全钢结构铆接，漆上不同颜色，从城市山顶的观景台往下看，甚是壮观。
匹兹堡市区内依附楼房和街道所作的艺术作品，为强悍的城市形象添加了柔软的色彩。如果在老城区里闲逛，你的眼睛绝对闲不下来，林立的商业大楼背后的街区，就有大片的墙面涂鸦，每隔一段时间就会变个样，又或者藏着前卫的艺术装置。我曾经在匹兹堡城区车流穿梭的十字路口看到并不属于夏天盛放的玉兰花树，走近一看才发现是以假乱真的装置艺术，它也属于城市公共艺术的一部分，与周围的街道很好地融合在一起。
匹兹堡街头的这些风景得益于大匹兹堡地区的艺术委员会的支持。艺术委员会有一句口号，叫做“响亮清晰地表达艺术”（Arts loud and clear）。安迪·沃霍尔故乡的艺术家们跟其他美国城市的艺术家一样，有机会从艺术委员会获得资助，将自己的作品呈现在公众面前，无论是街头还是商业大楼或是政府机构内。艺术委员会充当“传声筒”的角色，帮助艺术机构向政府争取预算，并且在必要的时候提供法律和商业咨询。匹兹堡人愿意将先锋艺术家的发声平台引向平常社区，将他们前卫创新的思维与城市贴合起来，因为他们相信，是层出不穷的创意让城市充满生机和活力，说不定下一个安迪·沃霍尔就诞生在这些艺术家中间。
对于那些不会满足于在街头走马观花、过过瘾的艺术爱好者来说，匹兹堡同样不会让他们失望。与威尼斯双年展齐名的卡内基国际展、以及诞生于1994年的匹兹堡双年展就为艺术爱好者们提供了不同的选择。以2014年的匹兹堡双年展为例，展览在城中8个不同的美术馆或画廊举办，展期跨度长达10个月，前文介绍过的安迪·沃霍尔博物馆和卡内基美术馆也是展览地点之一。虽然在国际艺术圈中的影响力还未臻至顶峰，但匹兹堡双年展仍不失为挖掘城市内涵、让新兴艺术家大显身手的极好平台。
与匹兹堡双年展交相辉映的，是历史悠久的卡内基国际展，它是北美地区历史最悠久的国际当代艺术展之一。一百多年来，经历过更名、展期变更和无数任策展人的心血耕耘，卡内基国际展仍然保持着雄心勃勃、向外开疆拓土的姿态。其设立的卡内基艺术奖获奖者囊括了毕加索、马蒂斯等在内的诸多艺术巨匠之名，300多件参展经典作品被卡内基美术馆永久收藏，当然这个名单当中少不了安迪·沃霍尔。或许，在“钢铁之城”和“桥梁之都”以外，匹兹堡还可以冠上“当代艺术培养地”的称号。
匹兹堡艺术领域的繁荣自然与早期发达的工业奠定的经济基础有关，而艺术的繁荣也无形中增添了经济的活力，触发城市的生机，更重要的是为安迪·沃霍尔这样的艺术家提供了萌芽的土壤。而安迪·沃霍尔给匹兹堡带来的，不仅是无数的珍贵藏品和不可不访的博物馆，更揭开了人们所不熟悉的城市形象的另一面。这一面将藉由艺术界的后起之秀，描绘得愈发清晰。
八月份road trip的倒数第二站，匹兹堡留给我的印象大大超出了预期，这其中跟安迪·沃霍尔不无关系。
可以把文中提及的作品链接加上。
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