基维斯特（Key West），大西洋上一个小小的岛屿，它是佛罗里达礁岛群的最西端，地处美国本土的最南端。这里是美国最负盛名的海滨度假目的地之一，几乎没有冬天，一年四季都可以拥抱大海，人们大多是因为这样的原因来到这里。杜鲁门任总统时期还专门在此修建了官邸，如今也向游客开放。这里是离古巴最近的地方——只有90英里，最南端的标志地经常人满为患。
对于海明威的书迷，基维斯特是美国本土最容易寻找到他的足迹的地方。1928年到1939年，海明威断断续续地在此度过了11年的光阴，不是临时停靠，而是买下了自己的房子和船，与岛上的居民建立了友谊。期间他经历了人生的诸多变化——父亲去世，孩子出生，开始新的感情。更重要的是，这是他最高产的一个时期，基维斯特的生活也预示着他终日与海相伴的生活的开始。
我们寻找海明威的旅程从迈阿密开始，沿着美国一号公路行驶，离开佛罗里达半岛大陆后，沿途便尽是触手可及的碧海蓝天，这样的景致绵延百余英里。途中经过狭长的七里长桥，最后抵达一号公路的起点和终点基维斯特。
“穷人的圣特罗佩”
海明威选择基维斯特纯属意外。如果不是因为一辆迟到的汽车，也不会有海明威与基维斯特10年的情缘。
1928年，海明威与第二任妻子保琳（Pauline）从古巴回国，他们的朋友、小说家约翰·多斯·帕索斯建议他们到基维斯特看看。4月他们来到基维斯特，打算停留6个星期，然后驾驶福特汽车返回保琳的家乡阿尔堪萨斯州的匹格特（Piggott of Arkansas）。天不遂人愿，从迈阿密运来的汽车意外耽误了，在汽车经销商的极力劝说下，海明威夫妇在西蒙顿大街314号汽车经销商楼上的公寓里住下。汽车在一个星期后终于送达，海明威却爱上了这座充满异域风情、又还带有美国气息的小岛，“这是我见过最好的地方”，他们改变了计划。
这是一个不小的转变，毕竟海明威之前住在巴黎——20世纪20年代的文学艺术音乐中心，在他的生命里留下过不可磨灭的印记，如他在《流动的盛宴》一书中所说，“假如你有幸年轻时在巴黎生活过，那么你此后一生中不论去到哪里她都与你同在，因为巴黎是一席流动的盛宴。”而20世纪20年代末期的基维斯特，受到经济大萧条的打击，人口骤减到一万，几乎没有什么生机可言，更别提文学和艺术了。那时，海明威已经出版了6本书，巴黎人熟悉他，基维斯特人则并不。在基维斯特新认识的朋友介绍海明威，也只轻描淡写地说：“他写过几本书。”那可是刚出版了《太阳照常升起》（The Sun Also Rises）的人。
基维斯特唯一值得称道的大概只有迷人的海域，所以海明威曾经说基维斯特是“穷人的圣特罗佩”（注：圣特罗佩St.Tropez是地中海沿岸的一个法国小镇）。
基维斯特带给海明威的第一份惊喜是出海垂钓的满足感。在密歇根湖畔长大的海明威对钓鱼并不陌生，而在海里寻觅猎物比在湖里更考验技术，策略、力量、耐心缺一不可，海明威显然乐于接受这样的挑战。在基维斯特，海明威最早结识的是一些喜欢出海钓鱼的人，其中一个叫查尔斯·汤姆森（Charles Thompson），他们认识后不久便一同出海，驶向墨西哥湾，仅仅一晚上，海明威和他的同伴就钓到了几条大海鲢，收获颇丰。拜汤姆森广阔的人脉所赐，海明威还可以到受管制的水域钓鱼潜水。时间长了，海明威和同伴们还形成了出海钓鱼的“帮派”。
海明威在岛上的日常生活十分简单，除了早上在家写作，他的大部分时间都与钓鱼的“同伙”在一起，或出海钓鱼，或到酒吧喝酒聊天。他们喜欢到简单得不能再简单的“电子厨房”（Electric Kitchen）吃早餐，坐在这座木质平房里花上20美分就能吃上一份总汇三明治。海明威偶尔会到汤姆森家吃晚餐，他的太太菲比（Phoebe）做得一手好菜。晚饭后，他们会一同到古巴人莱昂特·瓦拉达雷斯Leonte Valladares）开的书店看看杂志。
书店、酒吧、拳击赛
海明威把他的一些精装版的书寄存在瓦拉达雷斯的书店出售，签名版的《太阳照常升起》和《没有女人的男人》（Men witout Women）比定价贵一块钱。这个书店开了几十年，店主的儿子亚瑟（Arthur）接管了生意。亚瑟仍然记得年幼的他第一次见到海明威的场景：他看到一个穿着莫辛卡鞋和系带短裤的男子走进店里，于是对父亲说，这人没有扎皮带，他应该很穷。亚瑟不知道这男子会讲西班牙语，海明威听见了，抱起他放到自己的膝盖上，告诉亚瑟莫辛卡鞋是怎么做成的。
就在几年前，亚瑟去世了，书店也难以为继，杜瓦尔大街1200号现在是一家旅游纪念品商店——在基维斯特随处可见的商店，岛上经营文学书籍的书店也已经所剩无几，除了海明威故居的礼品店和书店，几乎就只有坚持经营了30多年的基维斯特岛书店（Key West Island Bookstore），还为作家专设书架，将他的作品摆满整个书柜，包括他的传记，甚至还有以他家猫为主题的儿童绘本。书店兼卖新书和二手书，有不少关于基维斯特风俗历史和本地作家的书，吸引不少书虫驻足。一些作家曾经前来基维斯特小住，比如剧作家田纳西·威廉姆斯（Tennessee Williams），但基维斯特人最能记住的还是曾经把这称为“家”的海明威，坚持将这座岛屿的文学气息的留存归功于这位伟大的作家。
海明威最喜欢去的“邋遢乔”酒吧（Sloppy Joe’s），是出海的伙伴之一、租船主乔·罗素（Joe Russell）经营的，酒吧搬迁过一次，却留下过海明威最重要的回忆——他的第三任妻子玛莎·盖尔霍恩（Martha Gellhorn）就是在罗素的酒吧里认识的。他的一些没有兑现的版税发票、《虽有犹无》（To Have and Have not）的部分手稿都存放在酒吧里，直到去世后才被发现。海明威也许是基维斯特岛上最有名的居民之一，人们用尽各种办法想利用他的名号吸引顾客。“邋遢乔”酒吧舞台中央的幕布上，印着巨大的海明威的头像，酒吧还制作了有海明威头像的T恤供客人购买。而“邋遢乔”酒吧的旧址后来也开了另外一间酒吧“托尼船长”（Captain Tony’s Saloon），外墙上则涂上大大的海明威头像，标识着“海明威这些年在这度过（1933-1937）”。这新旧两间酒吧在几年前还曾经为了搞清楚谁才是海明威最常光顾的店，而闹上了法庭，最后还是“邋遢乔”酒吧占了上风。如果想要探访海明威的足迹，便可以到这两家酒吧走走。
海明威的体育爱好广泛，住在基维斯特时，他热衷观看每周五举行的拳击比赛，这也是大萧条时期的岛民们为数不多的消遣，每次拳击比赛都可以吸引数百观众。海明威甚至还曾上场当裁判，闲暇时也会在家里后院的拳击台上练习，偶尔有拳手上门挑战，却常常因为低估海明威的实力而被击倒。不过，当年的拳击场已经盖起了房子，经营着一家叫“蓝色天堂”（Blue Heaven）的餐厅。
杰作诞生的地方
1928年到1930年，海明威在基维斯特断断续续地住了半年，他曾经邀请朋友们来钓鱼，大多是春天的时候，费兹杰拉德也曾经是海明威在小公寓里招待过的客人。等到1931年春天再次回到基维斯特，海明威觉得是时候换个大房子了，于是他拜托汤姆森给自己找一处固定的住所。海明威需要一个地方写作，加上保琳怀着第二个孩子，海明威一家需要一个大院子让两个孩子玩耍。那时汤姆森太太已经带保琳看过了怀特海德大街907号（Whitehead Street）的别墅了，那是当地建筑师阿萨·提夫特（Asa Tift）在1851年设计建造的西班牙风格的两层别墅，地处岛屿的中心地带，与灯塔隔街相望。保琳的叔叔赞助了他们8000美元，海明威夫妇没过多久就买下了这幢房子，一住就是好几年。
这幢房子今天成了到访基维斯特的游客必去的景点，哪怕不是海明威的粉丝，哪怕要排上十多分钟队买一张13美元的门票，海明威的故居仍然门庭若市，这座别墅本身就值得观赏。博尼丝·迪克森（Bernice Dickson）于1961年买下了这幢别墅，改造成博物馆于1964年开放，如今已登记为美国国家历史名胜。当然，现在游客们看到的房子跟当年海明威夫妇刚买下时大有不同。夫妇俩花了一年多的时间，重新布线、修复管道、重新粉刷天花板的墙壁，铺上新的木地板，修好漏水的屋顶，将14英尺深的地下室改造成了红酒酒窖，别墅附设的小楼则改造成了佣人房和海明威的写作间。
到海明威的故居参观，尽责的工作人员会不厌其烦地向你讲解当初海明威夫妇改造这座别墅的故事，最让他们大费口舌的部分是院子里的游泳池——当时方圆百里内的几乎唯一一个泳池。海明威出国报道西班牙内战时，保琳决定将院子里尚未完工的泳池修好，不料这个长60英尺、宽24英尺的泳池到完工时竟花费了20000美元，比房价的两倍还多。海明威对这笔开销似乎颇有微词：“你干脆花光了我最后一分钱吧。”由于岛上还没有连通半岛陆地的淡水运输管道，居民靠着降雨积水获得淡水，海明威夫妇又不得不修建管道引入海水。“你看，古往今来，女人花起钱来都没有什么理智可言啊。”带我们参观的导游说。
我对这样的解说有些不以为然，参观海明威的写作间时，讲述可就没那么绘声绘色了，可那是我在整幢别墅最喜欢的部分，与作家的文学灵魂最接近的地方。每天早上起床、在卧室洗漱过后，吃完早餐，作家就可以从别墅二楼的天桥走到写作间，他一般从8点开始写作到中午。就在他写作《午后之死》（Death in the Afternoon）时，别墅的装修工程还在继续，写作间的书架是家具设计师为海明威夫妇制作的第一批家具。海明威一边与噪音作斗争，一边将关于斗牛的便条和照片贴满房间供写作时取材，保琳曾经取笑说他的写作间就像一个废纸篓。
今天的写作间已经变得相当整洁，但是家具和摆设还保持着当时的样貌：几扇大大的落地窗，五个书架靠墙而立，也许在同一张桌椅前，海明威写出了《丧钟为谁耳鸣》（For Whom the Bell Tolls）、《非洲的青山》（The Green Hills of Africa）、《乞力马扎罗的雪》（The Snows of Kilimanjaro）和《弗兰西斯·麦康伯快乐而短暂的一生》（The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber）——这是海明威最高产的时期。而墙上挂着的鹿头和鱼的装饰则透露了主人的爱好——打猎和钓鱼。
巨匠身影
在海明威的作品中，以美国为故事发生地的并不多，长篇小说里只有《虽有犹无》（To Have and Have Not），就是以基维斯特为背景，虽然这不是最能代表美国的城市，却是海明威熟知的地方。故事讲述了一个以深海捕鱼为生的租船主哈利·摩根（Harry Morgan），在大萧条时期因生活所迫，不得不涉足非法经营，比如偷渡古巴人，然而他在海明威心目中却是不向生活低头的英雄。海明威在故事里生动刻画了大萧条时期海岛小镇的面貌，呈现的种种正是以基维斯特为原型，比如有古巴美容店、药店、唱片店、冰淇淋店的主大街。
今天的基维斯特规划没有发生什么变化，旧城仍以杜瓦尔大街为中心，只不过大街上多了许多吸引游客的餐厅、酒吧和纪念品商店，店租变得高昂，从早到晚一直很热闹。
基维斯特给海明威的文学创作带来的灵感一直持续到上世纪50年代。他写作的《老人与海》中渔夫的形象，就来自他最初在基维斯特结识的两个古巴船员，其中一个名叫格雷格里奥·福恩特斯（Gregorio Fuentes），福恩特斯是海明威相伴20多年的出海伙伴，从1934年海明威购置属于自己的船开始，就一直在船上工作，是厨子也是水手。他是海明威珍视的朋友，海明威故居客厅墙上的一幅版画里，还有福恩特斯的身影。海明威为自己35岁生日设定的计划，就是跟船员们驾驶自己的“皮拉尔号”前往古巴。《老人与海》中描写的大风大浪，正是海明威在现实生活中也经历过的，这部作品也许是海明威的作品里传阅度最广的，还为他赢得了1953年的普利策奖。
海明威记忆中的基维斯特不是匆匆一瞥，基维斯特人也在各处以各种方式留住这个传奇人物和他的故事。海明威出海垂钓的海域，到今天仍然是垂钓爱好者的理想去处。海明威故居里的50多只六趾猫里，据说有的是当年他养的猫的后代，其中一只还跟当年他们最喜欢的“雪球”长得很像，这些生命在海明威的故居里还将继续繁衍下去。
平日的基维斯特，走在街上并不会随处可见海明威的“存在”，虽然纪念品商店里偶尔会看到印有他头像的商品，也有人在路边的篱笆上写过“海明威在此小便”（Hemingway Pissed Here）。
但到了每年7月21日海明威生日前后几天举办的“海明威日节”（Hemingway Day Festival），“海明威”会变得无处不在。海明威模仿大赛的决赛在“邋遢乔”酒吧举办，留着花白络腮胡的中老年人聚集在一起，决出最像海明威的那个，去年的优胜者经过了5轮较量、战胜了120多个参赛者才赢得比赛。海明威在《太阳照常升起》中描写过的西班牙奔牛节，在“海明威日”则被搬到了基维斯特，模仿者们在杜瓦尔大街上“骑”着木头做的牛，重现当年海明威熟悉的场景，向他致敬。
上世纪30年代末，已经与玛莎·盖尔霍恩交往的海明威决定离开妻子保琳。1939年底，海明威回到基维斯特，别墅空空荡荡，保琳带着儿子去纽约过圣诞了。海明威在岛上待了9天，没有去见老朋友，埋头写作未完成的《丧钟为谁而鸣》。圣诞刚过的第二天，海明威打包自己的书和行李，驾驶自己的“皮拉尔号”，去了离基维斯特90英里之遥的古巴，在那里陆续生活了20年。他再也没有回来过。
去年圣诞去的佛罗里达，除了海明威，其实这里与古巴的种种牵连，也很值得书写。
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